Decoding the hype around hypochlorous acid

Not a day goes by without a new skincare ingredient or trend going viral. But never did I think that we’d be talking about one that was, believe it or not, used in the World Wars to treat and heal the wounds of injured soldiers! We’re talking about one of the latest sensations, hypochlorous acid, that’s been doing the rounds since last year. 

This simple but powerful ingredient caught everyone’s fancy after US-based skincare and beauty brand Tower 28’s SOS Daily Rescue Facial Spray became popular on TikTok in 2022. Since then, the interest in hypochlorous acid’s benefits has only been growing, with it now becoming one of the latest buzzwords in skincare.

To decode the hype around this fascinating ingredient, we spoke to two skin experts. 

Hypochlorous 101
So, what exactly is hypochlorous acid (HOCl)? Lucknow-based board-certified dermatologist and founder of The Skin Art Clinic, Dr Nidhi Singh Tandon, says, “HOCl is an antibacterial by-product of white blood cells and that is why it has anti-bacterial, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory wound healing and barrier repair properties.”

Board-certified dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal who is founder and medical director of Yavana Aesthetics Clinic adds, “Hypochlorous acid is an integral part of our immune system; it is a weak acid that has anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory actions. In dermatology, it is used to treat eczema, infected wounds, acne, and compromised skin.”

It is an active ingredient and an oxyacid of chlorine. You read that right. But before you get ready to backflip into a swimming pool to reap its skin benefits, Dr Tandon clarifies, “HOCl is not simply chlorine dissolved in water, though they are related.” She explains that hypochlorous acid is its own unique molecule and while it contains chlorine as part of its structure, it’s a completely different substance with different properties, much like how water (H2O) and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) are different despite both containing hydrogen and oxygen.

“When your white blood cells fight infection, they naturally produce HOCl, it’s a part of your body’s defence system. This is very different from chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite, NaClO), which is much harsher and isn’t produced by your body. For skincare use, hypochlorous acid has to be diluted to 100 parts per million before it’s safe to use on your skin.”

Is hypochlorous acid for you?

So which skin types can really benefit from this? Dr Tandon says, “It is useful for people with acne prone skin or active acne, those who have inflammation on the skin, whether it’s from eczemas or psoriasis. People who have sensitive and rosacea prone skin can also benefit from this, and it is also useful for post-procedure skin care.”

When it comes to usage, Dr Agarwal says hypochlorous acid is mainly used in spray or mist form, and can be sprayed on the face in the morning after cleansing, followed by the rest of your serums and products. She shares a word of advice, “Choose the formulation with care as it can be drying and irritating to the skin if the pH is not appropriate.” She points out that hypochlorous acid is not a stable ingredient and can easily break down on exposure to air, light and heat. “As it oxidises very rapidly, using the same product for long periods of time may lose its efficacy.” 

Dr Tandon also cautions that while hypochlorous acid is safe and suitable for all skin types including sensitive skin, it should be used when the need arises. So, if you don’t have any skin concerns like acne, inflammation, and have normal skin—you can give hypochlorous acid a miss. “In fact, sometimes using these products can kill your good bacteria and lead to overgrowth of the bad bacteria. So, not everything that is trending is beneficial for everyone,” she says. Point duly noted.

A multipurpose ingredient

With its healing, sanitising and barrier repairing properties, hypochlorous acid can be used not only on acne-prone, irritated skin, but also after sun exposure to calm and soothe any redness on the skin. In dermatology conditions like eczema, it is even used in bleach baths.

You can also combat body odour with this multiuse ingredient—just spritz it onto the skin or on a cotton pad and clean the underarm area. So, pop it in your travel bag or gym duffel and you’re good to go.
Now, if you’ve purchased a bottle of hypochlorous acid and don’t deal with any of the abovementioned issues—don’t get rid of it just yet! Direct application to the skin is not the only way to use hypochlorous acid, we learn from Dr Tandon who shares a tip we absolutely love! “You can also use hypochlorous acid for other things like disinfecting your beauty blenders and makeup brushes,” she says. Being anti-bacterial and anti-microbial in nature, HOCl can help sanitise and thoroughly clean your beauty tools. It’s clearly a win-win!

Lead image: Pexels

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