Can an anti-glycation skincare routine really slow ageing?
Three dermatologists weigh in.
Recently, glycation has emerged as the latest ageing culprit, piquing the interest of beauty and skincare enthusiasts worldwide. Dermatologists and skincare experts are now spotlighting it as a critical factor in premature ageing alongside more familiar culprits like UV exposure and air pollution. So, what exactly is glycation and why has the anti-glycation skincare routine become a focal point in many anti-ageing routines?
Glycation is a biochemical process that occurs when excess sugars, like glucose or fructose, attach to proteins, lipids, or nucleic acids, forming harmful molecules known as advanced glycation end products (AGEs). In the skin, these AGEs bond with proteins like collagen and elastin, causing them to stiffen and lose elasticity. This non-enzymatic reaction occurs naturally over time, but factors such as high blood sugar, oxidative stress, and UV exposure can accelerate it. When it comes to the skin, glycation primarily affects collagen and elastin, the proteins that maintain skin firmness and elasticity. When these proteins undergo glycation, they become stiff, less elastic, and more prone to breakdown, resulting in visible signs of ageing like wrinkles, sagging, and a loss of suppleness. Additionally, AGEs can also trigger inflammation and oxidative stress, further damaging the skin's structure and appearance.
Anti-glycation skincare routines are crafted to counteract glycation at a cellular level, reducing sugar’s impact and slowing visible ageing. These products often include ingredients like carnosine, vitamins C and E, green tea extract, alpha-lipoic acid, niacinamide, botanical extracts, and powerful antioxidants, designed to fight glycation and restore skin’s natural elasticity. But, do these products really deliver on their claims?
How do Anti-Glycation Skincare Works
Dr. Madhurya Gogineni, Dermatologist at Zennara Clinics explains that anti-glycation skincare routines are designed to reduce the formation of AGEs in the skin, preserving essential proteins like collagen and elastin. These products often contain ingredients that actively inhibit glycation, protecting the skin from oxidative stress and supporting its natural repair processes. When combined with lifestyle changes such as reducing sugar intake, following a balanced diet, and using sunscreen consistently, anti-glycation skincare can help maintain skin elasticity and reduce the visible signs of ageing caused by glycation.
Dr Geetika Srivastava, a dermatologist and founder of Influennz Skin and Hair Clinic in Delhi, elaborates, “These products work both preventatively and partially reparatively, helping the skin combat glycation effects before they become more pronounced.”
Lifestyle Factors Contributing to Glycation
Diets high in sugar and trans fats, smoking, excessive alcohol consumption, prolonged sun exposure, chronic stress, and pollution can all exacerbate glycation and lead to skin issues. These include fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity (referred to as “sugar sag”), yellowish dullness, dryness, sensitivity, and pigmentation irregularities. As a result, anti-glycation skin care has gained significant popularity as a preventive measure to protect against the damaging effects of glycation and oxidative stress.
While research on anti-glycation skincare is relatively new, several studies have shown promising results. Clinical evidence supports the efficacy of ingredients like carnosine and antioxidants in reducing AGEs' formation and improving skin appearance. For example, one study highlighted the ability of carnosine to inhibit glycation and oxidative stress in skin cells, potentially preventing AGEs accumulation and promoting skin resilience. As research continues to evolve, the long-term benefits of anti-glycation skincare are expected to become even clearer.
Dr Gogineni notes that the effects of anti-glycation skincare are not instantaneous. Glycation is a gradual process, and addressing its impact on the skin takes time. “You may start to notice subtle improvements in your skin’s texture and radiance within three to six months of consistent use,” she shares. However, she emphasises that results will vary depending on individual skin conditions and how well the skincare regimen is paired with lifestyle adjustments, such as reducing sugar intake and incorporating antioxidants. “Think of it as a long-term investment in your skin’s resilience and overall health,” she adds.
One of the advantages of anti-glycation skincare is its suitability for various skin types. Ingredients like niacinamide, green tea extract, and vitamin C are not only powerful anti-glycation agents but are also gentle enough for sensitive skin. For individuals with acne-prone skin, Dr Gogineni advises choosing non-comedogenic formulations that won’t clog pores. However, it's best to consult a dermatologist before adding new products to your routine, especially if you have highly reactive or sensitive skin, as the response to certain anti-glycation ingredients can differ based on skin type.
In conclusion, anti-glycation skincare offers a promising approach to combat the visible signs of ageing caused by excess sugar and oxidative stress. With consistent use of targeted skincare products and complementary lifestyle changes, such as eating a balanced diet, managing sugar intake, and using sunscreen, you can effectively support a youthful and resilient complexion well into the future. As research continues to advance, the role of anti-glycation skincare in maintaining healthy skin will become more evident, further solidifying its place as an essential component of a comprehensive anti-ageing regimen.
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